That’s the thing about Malay cuisine — it is something we’re more familiar with at a warung, somebody’s house or at a wedding, but for a while, it had no relevance or place amid the emerging trendy and fine dining eateries that were cropping up around Kuala Lumpur. However, the last five years has seen a new wave of creative chefs and restaurateurs who have taken Malay cuisine’s raw and rustic style, refined it and packaged it for the discerning 21st century diner.
Where previously we used to rely on hotel coffee house buffets to allow our out-of-town guests to sample Malay cuisine — in other words, to enjoy ikan assam pedas in an air-conditioned setting — we now are able to take them to an outfit that makes the effort to excite us locals as well despite the flavours being so familiar. We can also now enjoy the challenge of finding wines that pair well with our favourite dishes.
It is an exciting time for Malay cuisine, although there is still much room for improvement. Japanese, Chinese and Thai cuisine have had a lead in evolving their fare to play amongst the gastronomical greats, with some of their players having earned Michelin stars. It’s time we caught up.
Here are a few of the city’s choice picks of Malay fine dining.
Ibunda Malay Fine Dining
251 Jalan Bukit Bintang, KL
Santapan at Ibunda Fine Dining
Tel: (03) 2148 8488
Website: www.ibunda-finedine.com.my
Ibunda has been making waves in the KL dining scene. Employing the talents of chef Zabidi Ibrahim, who was the award-winning chef at Gulai House, the Malay restaurant in Langkawi’s Andaman.
What’s caught everyone’s attention has been dishes like pan-fried foie gras with ciku, kiwi coriander dressing (Hati Itik Buah Chiku) and grilled lobster meat with black caviar and dried plum sorbet (otherwise known as Udang Kara Ais Kepal Asam Boi).
The Ikan Sutera Kukus Halia Kekacang, is apparently a must-try. It is RM88 for a river fish, but it is a specific wild river fish known as Ikan Sultan, a species of wild Jelawat that lives only in streams near waterfalls. Steamed with seven types of organic beans, it is served with a sliver of lobster with sautéed ginger, garlic and dried shrimp as a sauce.
There are several private rooms, including a cigar room with a readily available selection of fine cigars.
Bunga Emas
The Royale Chulan, Level 1
5 Jalan Conlay, KL
Tel: (03) 2688 9688
Probably the youngest of the lot, Bunga Emas opened September last year, with the kitchen helmed by chef Khairul Ghazali, who has served at The Andaman and Four Seasons Resort in Langkawi, Sutera Harbour & Spa in Sabah, and Carcosa Seri Negara in KL.
His culinary creations are mainly presented in Malay “hidangan” style so you should come in a group, enabling you to sample various flavours and textures at once. Khairul is experimental indeed with presentation and textures but stays true in terms of taste.
The 39 Restaurant
PNB Darby Park, Level 39
10 Jalan Binjai, KL
Tel: (03) 7490 3939
The 39 Restaurant is where you can enjoy traditional Malay cuisine with an enchanting view of the Kuala Lumpur skyline. Those afraid of heights can choose to sit inside whilst the braver diners can opt for the alfresco tables. Some of their signature dishes are Sup Ekor served in Farmer Bread Skin, Tenggiri Otak-Otak, Pindang Lautan, Rendang Warisan, Ayam Golek Perchik, Jenahak Asam Pedas, Daging Kerutup, and Gulai Ayam Kampung. You might want to also try the Patin Tempoyak Cili Padi or the Rusuk Kambing Kurma.
Open for lunch and dinner daily (accept for Sundays and public holidays) this is an ideal spot to power lunch, and for a deal too — a special promo offers a buffet lunch (12.30pm to 3pm) at RM59++ per person.
Enak KL
LG2, Feast Floor, Starhill Gallery
Jalan Bukit Bintang, KL
Tel: (03) 2142 8973
Website: www.enakkl.com
Enak KL claims to be the city’s premier Malay fine dining restaurant. Nestled within Starhill Gallery’s Feast Village, Enak KL has indeed been garnering a fair bit of attention for its repertoire. Specialities include Ayam Goreng Lengkuas, Rendang Padang, Botok-Botok (sea mackerel wrapped in aromatic ground spices and herbs then steamed), Gado-Gado and Kerabu Asparagus.
Apparently there are family and corporate packages available so do call them to inquire.
Bijan Bar & Restaurant
3 Jalan Ceylon, KL
Tel: (03) 2031 3575
Website: www.bijanrestaurant.com
Bijan Bar & Restaurant is probably one of the earliest to express Malay cuisine in an elegant way. Opened in September 2003, Bijan is a refurbished old bungalow, with a lot of wood and stone finishing that set the tone for a chic and intimate yet roomy space that has proven to be very popular for corporate entertainment and product launches.
Highly recommended dishes are the Masak Lemak Ikan dengan Belimbing and the Rusuk Panggang. Bijan’s innovation of the traditional recipes is done with much restraint that even though the dishes are seemingly presented in more modern plates, there’s still a hint of hominess to the flavours.
As it is located within KL’s central business district, do consider this a lunch destination during weekdays as that is when Bijan’s Nasi Hidang is on offer, described as “an innovative concept that allows diners to sample a wide variety of dishes on a small budget”.
This article appeared on the Live it! page, The Edge Financial Daily, October 8, 2010.
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